So Cop Car was right in her assessment in my last post, I managed to get the big pellet stove moved by myself (Wednesday evening 9/12/18). I didn't take pictures at the very beginning, but hopefully there are enough pics so you get an idea of how I managed it.
This is the set up as I was getting ready to move it (disassembly pics further down). I once again affirmed that I am not entirely crazy for keeping a lot of drop pieces from different projects. The stove set on 4" blocks on top of the concrete floor so I had to even the level between it and the pad. There was that 4" drop, then a 1.5" rise where the flooring system is, then the rise to the stove pad. I put small pieces of plywood between the stove pedestal and concrete blocks to keep from scratching the pedastal base and make the moving easier. I used pellet bags for sliding ease.
After rocking the stove into place onto the pellet bags, I was able to mostly slide the stove over to the stove pad. Once on there, I got it in approximate position then lifted up each side of the stove and used a foot to slide the bags out from underneath. You can see the ramp that I had constructed (the plywood pieces).
While disassembling, I thought to take pictures. So under the plywood was almost every drop of lumber that I have ever saved. Under that is a sheet of plywood and under that are a couple thicknesses of dura-rock pieces. That piece of lumber in front of the "puzzle" supported a construct that bridged the 4" drop (obviously I had already disassembled that part).
I had the stove nearly in place and I was trying to match up the original exhaust pipe. But, it was a foot too long and no matter how I configured the stove (even trying a corner install - moving the entire base with stove on it), I found it wouldn't work. Happily, there was a 1' section between the stove connection and a 60" pipe that I could remove. However, I couldn't for the life of me get the pipes to twist apart. My hands are just too small to bet a good grip. The next day while at work I was stewing over the possibility that I would have to buy all new pipe. I was thinking that surely they made something that would be useful in this situation when I realized that an oil filter wrench, if they made them large enough for 3" pipe, would probaby work. After doing some research I found strap wrenches were available for up to 6". Yay!!! They even had some at the L*wes that is less than a mile from work. I bought it, it did the job, and I was ready to assemble.
So, here is the pipe, almost set up. Unfortunately I needed a 6" piece to install between the 90* at the top of the 60" pipe and the part that extends out of the house. The people that installed the stove used a brand of pipe that is not available around here, nor do they sell commercially. I have spent some time trying to get a distributor to sell me such a piece, but to no avail.
Last weekend I set up the OAK (outside air kit). I didn't use the old pipe as it was beat up, abused, and had an extension on it that was not up to fire safety being that close to the stove (the extension piece had been way away from the stove in the previous configuration). I already had two sections of semi-rigid aluminum pipe, which I used aluminum connecter rings to join, then installed between the stove air inlet and the existing connector pipe to the outside. In this picture you can see how the exhaust pipe is almost against the wall without a 6" extension. The exhuast should be 3" away from the wall.
So, at this point I can't get a 6" pipe and other brands won't work (I've tried). However, I can do what I was trying to avoid - remove the pipe going thru the wall (which involves removing all the air/weather tight rubber/silicone gasketing), add the 1' section I removed earlier, and then reinstall to my liking. The exhaust will extend about 6" further from the outside wall than it had, but it should be okay. Then I will have to re-gasket the pass thru which I usually make a mess of :D